Digest

As the year fades into leaf-fall, flowers take on a heightened significance in our days. The arrangements our friend Sarah Ryhanen of Saipua brings to us each week at Hamlet take our breath away and so perfectly capture the Hamlet spirit of abundance, joy, seasonality, and unfussy beauty.

Our reflective mood doesn't stop us from looking ahead - now is the time to plant bulbs for spring. Sarah's absolute favorites come from Van Engelen in Connecticut. She loves all the Narcissus (daffodils), especially the Thalia and Minnow varieties, as well as Fritillaria Persica and Uva.

If you'd like to see where the Saipua magic happens, this Sunday is the last Coyote Cafe of the season at World's End Farm. If you plan to go, let the folks in the kitchen know so they can prep plenty of delicious food.

by Jesse James

As some of you know, Kostas and I have spent the past three years restoring a building at the heart of the community, in the tiny, magical town of Rensselaerville just north of the Catskills where we bought a home ten years ago. We knew it long before we lived there, as the home of The Palmer House Cafe — a restaurant that opened in 1986, one we'd go out of our way to visit. It shuttered its doors after 31 years, within our first year as neighbors. The loss was felt by the village, and as newcomers, it changed the dynamic of the place we'd come to plant roots in.

I grew up in a restaurant: Chicago's legendary Heartland Cafe — Good Wholesome Food for the Mind & Body. My parents and a friend opened it in 1976, when I was 6, and much like The Palmer House, it built and served a community for decades — in this case, 42 years. Milestones big and small happened there, from birthdays and marriages to the pivotal rally of Barack Obama's first senatorial campaign. It taught me everything foundational about work and humanity. After years away from working in service, I assumed we'd remain enthusiasts of the restaurant world rather than proprietors of one. But as we fell deeper in love with our hamlet, the story began to write itself.

Last week, we officially opened Hamlet — a restaurant in the footprint of The Palmer House, in a building we call Union Hall — one that will grow to house a provisions café, a private dining wing, a separate tavern, and a four-room hotel. It takes a cue from both The Palmer House and The Heartland Cafe, but it is neither — born of this place and years of travel: breaking bread, late nights, good cocktails, watching a room turn from day to night. Nothing gives me greater satisfaction than a room I've had a hand in creating, filled with people enjoying themselves. Huge thanks to the crew who built it, including co-designer Lisa Ano.

I hope to be there often — Kostas more — alongside Chef Matthew, Justin, Will, and a team of others who will bring the slow savor, warm welcome, and rural idyll that are the heart of Hamlet.

Tonight, we're offering 10% off for those attending the screening of Microcosmos at Rensselaerville Library's Community Cinema Film Night - reservations strongly recommended.

Something special is taking shape in the Pidgin universe. For the months of October and November, our visionary friends, the multidisciplinary duo Dumais Studio, will move into our Norman Hasselriis shop with a bespoke collection of ceramic lamps and vessels that play alongside selections from Norman’s estate collection of fascinating and surreal assemblage pieces. We hope you’ll join us to celebrate October 10th from 3-6. Mark your calendars - more to come!

Our absolute favorite way to eat zucchini - adapted from the brilliant Gina DePalma's Dolce Italiano. Don't skip the crunchy lemon glaze - it's an incredible textural counterpoint to the tender crumb of the cake. Keeps well for a few days.

For the cake:

• 1 cup (135g) walnuts, toasted and finely chopped
• 2 cups (280g) all-purpose flour
• 1 teaspoon baking powder
• 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 2 teaspoons cinnamon
• 1 teaspoon ground ginger
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg
• 3 large eggs
• 1 3/4 cups (350g) sugar
• 1 cup (250ml) extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 teaspoons vanilla
• 2 1/2 cups (300g) grated zucchini (don't squeeze the liquid out)

For the glaze:

• 1/4 cup (60ml) freshly squeezed lemon juice
• 1/3 cup (65g) sugar
• 1 cup (140g) powdered sugar

Directions:

• Preheat the oven to 350ºF and butter and flour a 10-cup bundt pan.
  
• In a medium bowl, sift together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, cinnamon, ginger, and nutmeg. Set aside.
  
• In the bowl of a stand mixer with the paddle attachment, beat the eggs, sugar, and olive oil for 3 minutes on medium speed, until light and fluffy. Stop and scrape down the sides of the mixer, then add the vanilla.
  
• Mix in the dry ingredients, scraping down the sides of the mixer bowl to make sure everything is mixed in well.
  
• Stir in the chopped walnuts and grated zucchini.
  
• Scrape the batter into the prepared cake pan and bake the cake for 45 to 50 minutes, until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean and the cake has begun to pull away from the sides of the pan.
  
• During the last few minutes of the cake baking, make the glaze by whisking together the lemon juice, 1/3 cup granulated sugar, and powdered sugar.
  
• Let the cake cool for 10-15 minutes, then carefully invert it onto a cooling rack. Brush the glaze over the cake with a pastry brush and let the cake cool completely.